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When assembling a ranking of London’s best dining spots, one might anticipate renowned Michelin-starred establishments. However, nestled high among these culinary giants is a modest salonu found in a far-flung area of north London.

A Shocking Honour

This compact Turkish spot, focusing in the street food of Mersin, a city on Turkey’s south coast, has been named the fourth finest restaurant in the metropolis by a prominent culinary publication. This honour has left the owners completely astonished.

“I am totally astonished,” remarks a family member, pointing to his family’s relentless work that resulted in their humble shop achieving such a prominent ranking on a respected 99-strong list.

The Appeal of Simplicity

The compact space, which used to be a simple cafe before its change into a sought-after spot, has retained much of its original charm. It accommodates just more than 20 people and, except for the vibrant live cooking show, the interior remains mostly unchanged. “It’s a tiny and intimate space,” notes the owner.

A Signature Dish: Tantuni

In the end, it’s all down to the fare, and this establishment more than excels. The eatery’s eponymous dish, tantuni, is a uncomplicated joy. Choice of meat—lamb or lamb or chicken—is steamed to keep a tender texture.

The meat is then thrown into a large pan with flavours and oil, which are added in slowly. As the savoury mixture starts to simmer, freshly made lavaş—a soft bread—is laid on top to soak in all the aromas. Finely sliced onions and a dash of parsley are placed before the tasty meat is wrapped tightly inside.

The wrap is typically eaten with a drizzle of lemon or some pickles. The final product is a mighty burst of taste, with soft hints of sumac, punchy onions and spicy, paprika-laced oil pulling it all together.

Beyond the Classic Tantuni

Patrons can also try yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is chopped and crowned with yogurt, tomato sauce and rich, nutty brown butter. The prominent food critic described this dish “a part of London’s few perfect, no-notes dishes”.

When it comes to dessert, the restaurant’s künefe goes down a delight. It is coated in a more modest amount of syrup than found elsewhere, resulting in it a deeper, toastier and not overly sweet profile.

Surpassing the Stars

Notably, this unassuming restaurant has been placed higher than several renowned three-Michelin-starred establishments. It finds itself near the peak of the list, following other esteemed dining destinations.

Whereas two people could readily leave the restaurant stuffed for less than £25, equivalent experiences at luxury establishments can cost significantly more than that amount.

The Creed of Warmth

It is also among several Turkish restaurants listed and is found well outside the city’s prime zones. “It’s not concerning luxury. London is an pricey city. It is expectation that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the finest service and best food but I don’t agree with that,” says the owner.

“In my view what is crucial is warmth, a welcoming atmosphere and somewhere you can be yourself and be calm.”

The philosophy is supported by the list’s curator, who remarked that if he were in a position of power, he would “insist to have every chef in London train at this restaurant as a masterclass, to teach them the pitfalls of overcomplication, and to show what is achievable if you do just one – or three – things to their absolute best”.

A Story of Dedication

In contrast to most chefs heading kitchens in the list’s top ten, the head chef behind the food did not apprentice at fancy restaurants. “I am very happy of our restaurant and our mum,” says her son.

Many restaurants need years to establish themselves, but this eatery first started seven years ago. Its success is due to long, grinding, seven-day weeks of work.

“Our mum used to be extremely tired. She would source produce in the morning and create the food in the afternoon. Everything is made by hand; she would do all of this. She is a single mother and she balanced a social life but her friends would come here to help her. She had children and a house to care for as well. All of these roles forged her into what she is now: a brilliant person,” he says.

An Achievement for the Culture

The restaurant’s recognition is set to have meaning beyond its own walls. “I think numerous people would be happy, as I am, because the Turkish community is a significant part of London,” says the owner, emphasising the wider significance of this culinary achievement.